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Morocco does not grow a single leaf of tea. It is the largest importer of Chinese green tea on earth, and it has built the most generous tea ritual in the world around a leaf that has to cross an ocean to get there. From the cafés of Casablanca to the villages of the High Atlas, the answer to almost anything is a pot, a fistful of mint, more sugar than you would choose, and a pour from a foot above the glass to raise a head of foam.

The traditional Moroccan cup is built on gunpowder green, rolled into tight pellets that give it a faint smoke. That smoke is the point. It is what lets the leaf carry all that mint and sugar without disappearing underneath them. A delicate tea would be annihilated by this recipe.

Choose your mint.

Spearmint is the traditional choice, the nana mint used in Morocco itself: softer, rounder, sweeter, no menthol bite. Ours pairs gunpowder green from Zhejiang Province, plucked in late summer and oven-fired until dark and glossy before rolling, with spearmint grown in Oregon and Washington, cut in July and left to dry in the fields about five days so the color stays bright and the flavor stays forward. In the cup the mint leads and the gunpowder sits underneath, mellowing the edge and adding body. This is the one we would pour you first.

Peppermint is the cooler, sharper reading: more menthol lift, a cleaner and more bracing finish, and the version many people outside Morocco grew up on. Organic green tea with organic peppermint, USDA Certified Organic. Excellent iced.

Ingredients: Spearmint, organic green tea and organic spearmint. Peppermint, organic green tea and organic peppermint. No flavorings in either.

Character: mint-forward, refreshing, built to take sugar
Caffeine: low, both mints
Weight: 100g

How to steep, the Moroccan way: Rinse a heaped tablespoon of leaf with a splash of hot water and pour that off, taking the dust and some of the bitterness with it. Refill, add sugar to taste, and brew on heat for several minutes. Pour a glass and return it to the pot two or three times to mix without stirring, then serve from as high as your nerve allows. It goes three rounds from the same pot, each one stronger than the last: gentle as life, strong as love, bitter as death.

How to steep, the quiet way: Water at 180°F, about one spoonful of leaves per cup, three minutes, no sugar. Lighter, greener, and closer to the leaf itself.

Iced: Use twice as much leaf to allow for the ice, or cold brew it in the fridge for eight hours.